VW ARTEON | Subwoofer an Original-Radio anschließen | ARS24

VW ARTEON | Subwoofer an Original-Radio anschließen | ARS24

I know that you love woofer videos and that’s why there is now the next woofer video with an active subwoofer in the VW Arteon and i take you with me today, from the car battery in the engine compartment into the trunk and connecting everything to the car radio. So, Arteon trunk, how does it look in the spare wheel well. Oh dear, shit, how it may look by probably many of you. Now we clear out everything, so that the thing is empty. So, what do we have here? Here he will find his place, my jewel. We have to do three important things now, first we need a signal for our subwoofer, that we get at the front from the car radio, we need a power for our subwoofer, then we go to the battery, so we’ll show you the battery terminal Plus and how to get into the vehicle interior, how to lay the cable in the sills, so that you can not see it and of course we will adjust the subwoofer and do a cool soundcheck. Guys, let’s go now to the car radio to pick up the sound. Let’s disconnect in the engine compartment the battery from the vehicle and there is the first study, that you need for the Arteon. Hey, I’ve been looking for this handle everywhere and where can i open it now, down there is such a lever, you have to know that first, yes, but now it starts. Turn off the power means to first remove mass from the battery. Well, that’s enough and away with it. Thus the vehicle is de-energized. Well, if I open the door now, it really reminds me of Part 1 where we did insulate in the Arteon the doors, so these are already insulated. You can take a look in Part 1, I’ll put you the video in the box up here, now and now Car radio out. What do we do with the car radio, we’ll leave it as it is, because that would be too complicated to uninstall, just because we’re installing a subwoofer, our car radio actually is here and there there are these ejector levers that unlock this part here. So and then i already have the part in my hand and it looks like a car radio or a 1-DIN thing and there we have our quad-lock connection on the back, I’ll put it off now. And now we can really leave everything that way, because we just have to get here and get to this Speaker set here for the front two speakers, we take that off, these are actually just the cables here. Then we get some space with the cables. Well, let’s just open this, just a little bit. So and now we said yes, these cables here, we need these four, so we reach everything actually quite well here and we are just adapting on these. So, gray is plus, white red plus and blue red is minus and green white is minus too. So I’ll explain briefly what we’re doing at all, the car radio produces a sound, yes, that goes to the speakers, but we need the sound for our subwoofer, so we have to get the signals from the front speakers, because we have no real subwoofer output on the car radio, which means we use a a high-low adapter, the AAC.3, since we have already done a lot of videos about it, for most of you, you know what’s coming now, we just connect this adapter on the terminal here to tap the sound of the front speakers, so we have the signal for the subwoofer, so to speak, we’ve done that so many times now that we’ll finish this and present it to you with the final result. So and back again, I’ll show you just where the trouble was and also on what you have to pay attention, since we had taken everything with the hand away, so clipped out, only under the back seat was such a clip screw to get out the backseat you just have to click, as with the BMW, so it’s super easy, then you get to this connection, get that away and then the only difficulty was to pull the cable through, you can do it with your hand or with our pull-through tool as we just showed it just to pull the cable through it. The glove compartment was also pretty easy to get rid of, those were the three screws above, one in the back of the car radio shaft so in the car radio bay and then we have the AAC.3 super easy mounted on the glove box and everything can be reinstalled, so and now we have our cable directly under the back seat and pull this in the trunk. Of course, to secure the cable under the back seat we use bitumen tape that we stick here where the cable should run and now we can pull the cable through here, down here. Wonderful, let’s just leave it here. Because now we need the power for the power amp and off we go to the battery. There he is now, our positive pole where we have to connect our power cable and have to move it to the trunk, so our 10 square Power cable from our V10 full Copper cable kit, there is everything in it for me also our fuse holder and in order to get through this somehow we have to remove the battery completely. Now the battery gets loose and we’ll take that away, the jogging suit for the battery. Away with it. Here below, under the steering wheel is this one screw, We’ll get rid of that, we’ll have the first disguise in hand and it’ll go over it and that’s back there screwed again. So, we have that in our hands and we can pull that out to the front. Okay, that was still the clip nut here and now you can take everything out of here. Down there the 2 push nuts, which was only to hold down, which will automatically loosen when you pull it out. So people, back there, you can see that badly, but you can feel it well, you get here at the back and there you are immediately at this big rubber sleeve where we actually go with our pull-through tape directly to the outside, so there is a clip and we can now snap it out again and pull the cable through. So, So now we can fix the cable on our pull-through strap, especially here in the front where the cable goes over in a transition, this is where it runs a bit more fluid and passes through the rubber now easy. So a little silicone spray and now we can pull it back. I’m through, it was just so easy, that was just really the cable here to draw. We have now the cable run through and we have connected it to the battery actually, but because all this is totally crushed lumps we can not put our cable here now, that means we have to look for another place and the other place is in the fuse box and that is this positive cable from here goes to this pole here, so that’s the one third from left and there is a Q on it in the case it is a Q, yes, I think so, definitely next to an X or K, what’s that stuff or F, no matter, that’s our Terminal pole and there we have to put our cable on it and we have to make a fuseholder, we can now pull the cable through here, put it in and then put it through. Who pursues us for some time, you know we put in the engine compartment and always in the visible places our fabric hose on the cables, because it just looks good. And OEM style is and it is a protection for the cable. All used parts what we install here you can of course find in the video description text with a link. But now we put a circuit breaker here, yes our ten square fuse holder with a 60 amp fuse in it and then we can finish pulling the cable through here, and then we can finish pulling the cable through here and we can attach it soon, afterwards we go through the Fuse box here and finally connect it to the terminal here. How it works with the fuse switch, we have already made this in so many videos, there we do not lose any time now, i just put that on now and after i’ve installed that, it goes on, it is not a difficulty to have fuse holders in the cable and now we can pull this through here. Feels good, feels really good. There it is, we can leave our fuseholder here, the cable we now stow neatly and we have our connection to our terminal here. So, we can do everything here. The last thing we always do if you have done any electronic parts, that’s the power supply here, the battery is gone now anyway. Now we can put our ring eyelet on it. And firmly. So we can let that hang nicely, does not matter at all, because down there you can get to everything where you have to go. Cover on it, ready. The only thing we need now, pulling the power cable all the way to the back and our remote controller, so with that we can now make the subwoofer loud and quiet, we install it in here and put the cable in here and we have to pull it back, do not forget. So, let’s start now and we have to undo this side trim parts by first loosening this part and then we have to drive in with the screwdriver and the clip simply pulls out. Come on, there it is. So, I’ll show you how that works, here’s the clasp that belongs here and with that we loosen the clasp, that was all right, yes, and now we can undo one Plastic nut, we still have to turn it out so now we can take the thing and out to the front. Now, of course, by undoing the sill again on the side, so and now we can liberate this too. So easy peasy, of course we can put our cable through it. And now we’re going to put our remote cable in here as well. Where do we have it? There we have it. The mass people, the mass, very important for a power amp to work like this, down here we have a reasonable mass back there, this is a really fat belt point and of course we can now put our ring eyelet on it and put the cable there as well and now we have to pull it down there, so that it comes out of where we want it. We solve. On this. Then of course we can now pull the ground cable here as well, Voila. Well So there is the good piece, let’s put it in here, because i have to explain to you now what’s up with the anchoring, this plastic part, the old one, we have put that out of here and now Eton puts this part in his subwoofer. Now you can put that on with the washer here and it is fixed here first, so we have a right connection here. That’s for sure. So and now we can put it all here on it, because of course, now it is tighter. So now we have our washer here. And the whole time here, our terminal is here right now, but it has to be, so. Then we tighten the whole thing too. What are we still doing. So that it does not wobble like that, there are Pats like that, but they are only really necessary for metal, i would say we take bubble foam and make a bubble foam in the bottom so it just sticks on one Foam bed and then we pull it down and then it does not rattle and then crashes nothing more. We have everything, bubble foam. Put it nicely down here. So. First the cinch cable. So we have signal on the woofer and now we’re doing some nice veins and yes our remote controllers, we can connect that aswell. What’s this, that’s 12 volts, ground and remote, so let’s get started Ground on. I almost hear him already produce bass, wrap the whole piece again in electrical tape, beautiful together, i think that can be really shown, the wiring. Now we have the thing and now we can put the lid on it again. I’m so curious how it works now, so bass can only run cool, I know how my Eton Bass, the Res 10, plays, of course we have put the battery back on by now, People and now. so, go on, my dear VW radio. So who says again our radios take so long to boot up and so on, so at VW, it is originally not synonymous better, yes, so now we have a sound here is a sound, so and the controller first left stop, that is, subwoofer as good as off. That’s how it sounded before. Well, that was not so bad, but now i put the subwoofer to it. What do you think, good? Good or not? This is live now, live with music that you can finally hear at a soundcheck, where you can be there live, i’ll put the subwoofer off again, the difference, yes. Now it’s on, now gone. Ok, next sound, cool, well, that’s not a good sound. Without subwoofer but full throttle, okay, now comes my subwoofer. This is an active subwoofer, so little work to install. Is that cool, is that cool or is that not cool. I have to listen to more music for a while now, i completely freak out with the Arteon without bass. People and i’m happy when you tell me how much votes you give me for the third part, so that we have the front system spiced up with a power amp. See you next time, your Olli.


48 thoughts on “VW ARTEON | Subwoofer an Original-Radio anschließen | ARS24”

  • Ich weiß nicht warum ich das grade schaue🤷‍♂️, ich habe zwar kein Arteon aber irgendwie trotzdem wie immer interessant 😁👍🏼👌🏼

  • Also ich muss ganz ehrlich sagen es hört sich einfach nur megageil an wenn ein Subwoofer im Kofferraum drin sitzt ich habe das gerade über die Anlage laufen lassen und ich habe auch an meine lautsprecher ein Bassreflex drin oder merkt man wenn der Bass draußen ist im Auto und wenn er reingemacht wird mit den Regler da vibriert der ganze Boden bei mir Wahnsinn ihr seid einfach die besten ich hoffe noch mein bekannten umzustimmen dass er auch was an sein Auto machen lässt ich bin auf jeden Fall ein großer Fan von euch und freue mich Euch bald zu sehen

  • Da gibt es aber bessere Lösungen mit high/low Adapter ohne den ori Kabelbaum zu zerschneiden. Als quadlock Lösung. Aber jeder wie er mag.

  • Wieso verwendet ihr am Radio nicht ein kurzes Verlängerungsstück, das dann sauber präpariert wird, um es mit Helix AAC.3 Adapter zu verbinden (ggf. gecrimpt oder so)? Beim Thema Versorgungsspannung arbeitet ihr ja auch relativ sauber…
    Finde es dann irgendwie nicht so clever, die originale Elektronik bzw. den Kabelbaum mit Stromdieben zu "beschädigen".

  • Heiko Kautzsch says:

    Hallo ASR24, ihr habt doch Ahnung von Autoradios, ich möchte kein neues Radio einbauen, ich fahre einen Skoda Octavia, bei mir ist das Radio Swing verbaut, nun zu meinem Problem, wenn es draußen Kalt ist funktioniert es einwandfrei, aber bei der Hitze der letzten Woche ging es ständig aus und wieder an, liegt es am Radio selbst oder kann es eine andere Ursache habenn, mir wurde gesagt es kann auch der Zündanlassschalter sein.
    Danke Heiko

  • Cedric K. NanoAquaWorld57 says:

    den strom für den AAC3 am autoradio abzweigen? hab alles so gemacht außer ein hight low adapter dazwichen gemacht werd ich nachholen da das autoradio im golf7 mir viel leistung vom monoblock nimmt

  • Moritz Fischer says:

    Ist die Art des Abgreifens nicht eher suboptimal aufgrund der Highpassfiltern bei den Frontlautsprechern? Wie wird denn der original Subwoofer bei einem besseren Soundsystem im Arteon/Golf angesteuert (Radiomodul dürfte ja überall verbaut werden)?

  • Man hat bei dem Test gesehen, dass die Bodenplatte des Kofferraum nicht mehr drauf lag. Wie ist das eigentlich: Kann die Platte drauf ( so dass ich wie vorher normal laden kann) oder muss die wegbleiben ( Vibrationen?) ?

  • Geiles Video Ich habe 2 fragen
    1 Frage: Wie heißt dass Lied bei 19:15?
    2 Frage: Würdet ihr auch ein Fahrzeug aus Österreich ein Soundsystem ein bauen?

  • Hey Olli könntest du nicht mal ein Video machen in dem du sagst welcher Durchmesser und welcher Gehäusetyp beim Subwoofer für welche Musikrichtung/Bassgeschmack am Besten geeignet ist?

  • Gute Arbeit ! Überlege mir schon das in meinen T-Roc einzubauen. Aber mit so viel Freude wie bei Dir, gehts bei mir nicht. Ich flippe schon aus, wenn irgendwas nicht passt oder funktioniert.

    Mach weiter so tolle Videos! mfG

  • Steffan Tatkraft says:

    Jetzt werden sich in den rezessiven Zeiten des Ökofaschismus leider nur die wenigsten noch einen kapitalen Aktionärswagen leisten können, weshalb auch ich nur nen i30 gekauft habe. Wie geht's da mit dem Zugriff zum Verstärkersignal?

  • Steffan Tatkraft says:

    Wie wäre es mal mit einem kleinen 15A Aktivwoover für die 180W Steckdose im Kofferraum? 20er Papiermembran, 3 Ohm, integrierte Weiche…

  • Marcin Sergiel says:

    Sehr schön. Auf so was habe ich gewartet. Könnt ihr nur noch sagen welche farbe am Radio hat der Plus? LG an ARS24 Team.

  • Eure Videos sind immer interessant. Jetzt zur Frage Batterie. Wie macht Ihr es mit Autos, bei denen die Batterie nicht abgeklemmt werden darf. Weil sonst das Auto nicht mehr läuft oder so?

  • Hi Olli könntet ihr vielleicht euch den skoda octavia 3 vornehmen mit dem Canton System ? In eurem Shop finde ich leider nichts zu dem Auto. Der Klang des Systems ist einfach grauenvoll mit dem komischen DSP Verstärker. Man kann auch nicht mal eben irgendwelche anderen Lautsprecher einbauen denn dann schaltet der Verstärker den LS ab oder es klingt noch schlimmer als vorher. Wäre nett wenn ihr da was anbieten könntet .
    Mit freundlichen Grüßen

  • wie er den bass feiert, kann ich nachvollziehen,hab meinen skoda scout upgegradet, Eton Frontsysthem + Dämmung + 10er Helix passiv Bass im kofferraum, Endstufe ist der kleine Gladen Monoblock..tolle Arbeit, weiter so…

  • Na ja, ihr greift da ein Tiefbasskastriertes Midbass Aktivsignal ab, legt das auf einen 25er in dem großen Auto und feiert das als wäre das jetzt voll die Gangster Boomkarre…
    Das Klientel das ihr hier versucht anzusprechen fährt keinen Arteon…der erste Arteon Basis ohne nix den ich bisher gesehen habe 🙂
    Radio auf Fullrange Codieren,DSP-Endstufe dran, Fronsystem tauschen,30er mit viel Hub dann wird`s richtig. Wisst ihr aber selber!

  • Hab mal ne Frage…
    Was brauche ich alles für die Montage für den radmuldenwoofer (chrunch GP690) wäre mein erster woofer seid Jahren..hatte immer nur woofer kisten nach Jahren ohne woofer würden wir eben nen radmulden einbauen wegen den Platz jedoch die Anschlüsse sind für mich komplett neu 🤔 was brauch ich da alles (Adapter oder dich nurcdie norm Standard kabeln)…danke im voraus

  • Beim Opel ADAM hätte ich gern gewusst wie die Kabel alle verlegt werden
    für Endstufe für Subwoofer und vor allem welches 2 Din Radio mit Navi.
    (Das Auto selber hat glaub ich kein GPS.) sinnvoll ist damit alle
    Funktionen wie Lenkradfernbedienung usw. weiter verwendet werden können.

  • Hey Olli
    Ich muss ja sagen, das sieht bei dir immer so spielend einfach aus der Einbau der Kabel vor allem so schnell.
    Hammer weiter so

  • Mega Mega … Ich Muss kaufen diesen Eton für meine Ford Focus mk3 ST 😀 weil orginal subwoofer von sony sound premium ist schlecht… (zu wenig Bass) 👎

  • Daedalus Revolution says:

    Der Mann hat richtig Spaß an der Sache! Hab mir gestern ein ETON Res 10A bestellt und kanns nicht abwarten, den in mein Auto zu basteln!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *