Proper Engine Break In Procedure

Proper Engine Break In Procedure


holla holla holla holla holla hey guys
in today’s video we’re gonna cover engine break-in procedure whether you
have a built motor maybe you’ve assembled at home by yourself or you
bought an engine from MAPerformance or any of the other reputable brands out
there that sell you an engine there are specific ways that you’re gonna want to
break that motor in to make sure that you maximize the longevity of that
engine and that you’re just gonna want to be safe right a lot of times people
don’t think of things when they go to do their first startup like checking for
fuel leaks or oil leaks in today’s video we’re gonna cover the seven steps that
our engine building experts have decided you need to know about as you go into
not only the first startup on your build engine but also on the break-in
procedure and we’re gonna cover everything today so stay tuned so the
first thing we’re going to touch on with everyone is safety whether you’ve built
the motor yourself or maybe you’ve had an assembled at a shop or your friends
came over and helped you assemble it you need to double check everything that
goes for bolts make sure everything’s tight you’re gonna want to make sure
your timing depending on your motor is set you’re gonna want to go ahead and
make sure that all of your fluids not just your oil also your coolant your
fuel make sure everything is tight and tidy if you guys have any oil leaks any
fuel leaks maybe you don’t have coolant in the engine those are all things that
are gonna be a severe hindrance when you go to start this and go through this
break-in procedure outside of just being safe and making sure you double-checked
all the work you’ve done to the motor before starting it up it’s also
important to be safe in regards to the fluids you’re putting in there during
that first startup we recommend using an inexpensive conventional oil the reason
we haven’t switched over to using like a break-in oil or something like that is
conventional oils a lot cheaper this oil is really going through kind of that
first heat up that first 20 minutes where you’re very in the RPM range and
the main purpose of this is to kind of clean out that engine we’re gonna be
draining that oil after that first 20 minutes to start up anyways and moving
over to a break in oil during our first 500 miles with a break-in so definitely
keep that in mind make sure you’ve got some cheap conventional oil on hand to
prime the system and then for that first startup in first 20 minutes of running so once you’ve done all your safety
checks you make sure your fluids are good and that your bolts are tight the
final thing you need to do is go ahead and secure that vehicle lock it into
place by setting the ebrake or putting some wheel chocks into place because
what we’re gonna do is we’re gonna prime the vehicle big things to consider here
is to make sure you haven’t connected your fuel we definitely don’t want fuel
going in the cylinders at this point additionally what we don’t want is we
don’t want the crank position center to be connected as of yet so if you’ve
taken any of those steps make sure you undo them before we prime the motor what
we’re gonna do to prime it you’re just gonna get in the car with those things
disconnected you’re gonna turn the key over until the oil light on the dash
goes away that’s gonna tell you that the oil has been running through the system
and that you’re ok to go ahead and connect those things before first start
up so we got safety we prime the motor the next big thing you’re gonna do is
start this engine I know a lot of you guys are very excited for this piece so
make sure you listen to what we’re about to talk about during that first startup
it’s important it’s vital it’s extremely important guys hear me out here that you
monitor your oil pressure during this period that first startup if you notice
a loyal low oil pressure low oil volume sensor light of anything coming on
you’re gonna want to make sure you instantly shut that motor off that’s
gonna give you a big red flag to say that there’s a catastrophic issue with
the bottom end of your motor the more diligent you can be with watching those
gages and monitoring your soiling system during this process you are gonna save
yourself a lot of headache if something was assembled wrong or you do have a
problem the sooner you shut that off the better
after that that engine is turned over and after you get that first click and
the thing fires up what we do and how our engine break-in procedure is laid
out is that you’re going to want to run that engine for about 20 minutes
not just idling we’re definitely not looking to idle this guy’s we need to
actually slowly ramp that rpm up between 2 to 3,000 and need to vary the RPMs in
between that range to start to really get those rings to seal it’s going to
allow for the the lifters to break in especially on certain applications such
as the Evo 10 or some Subaru’s with the flat tappet style
you’re gonna want to make sure that there’s at least 20 minutes of break in
with that varying rpm it’s gonna seal the Rings really well against that fresh
cross hatching from honing and you’re just gonna end up with a motor that last
you a lot longer and really performs better it doesn’t burn as much oil so
it’s very important you guys take some time get that first startup right and
make sure that you run this car appropriately and spend time varying
your rpms to give this a good break-in on your brand new engine during the
first 20 minutes of runtime on your new engine you’re going to want to have an
extra set of hands there may be a friend or family member that can watch things
with you we’re gonna want to be checking for oil leaks or coolant leaks you’re
gonna want to make sure you watch your air fuel ratios and make sure nothing’s
too lean or too rich but during that time you’re definitely gonna want to
keep a close eye on things as we vary those RPMs between two and three
thousand once you’re done with about twenty minutes of runtime on that you’ve
heat cycled everything we’re gonna want to go ahead and get rid of that cheap
inexpensive conventional oil out of your system so make sure you drain it while
the car is still relatively warm that helps make sure that the oil runs smooth
and that we get all the contaminants out and at that point we’re going to be
switching over to our engine break in oil
we highly recommend like Lucas Oil or some of the other high zinc oils out
there that are specifically meant for engine break-in for this next step now that we’ve checked our safety we
double-checked our bolts fluids we moved on to priming the engine and that was
really not much fun but then we started it now that things running we’ve got 20
minutes of variant RPMs between two and three thousand rpms we’ve got this thing
broke and then the next step many of you’re gonna want to do do you even want
to take this car on the road that is the most exciting point and that’s generally
where excitement can trump smarts you guys need to be thinking when you’re
doing this just like earlier on in the process as you get into that car and you
take it for the first cruise what we recommend is you’re gonna take that car
and you’re gonna go drive for about 30 to 50 miles
you’re gonna vary your speeds and you’re gonna do that under light load
conditions what we mean is no wide open throttle you are going to slowly
accelerate to speed what you’re gonna do after you get up to speed is you are
going to let the engine brake you down these are called vacuum poles pretty
simple to do you slowly accelerate to speed and you let the engine go ahead
and be be used as an engine brake to slow you back down that is what is
putting pressure against the piston rings against the cylinder wall and
really seating those piston rings well in creating the nice seal that you guys
are looking for to make sure that we’re not having any oil burning or oil usage
in the future with this new built motor pretty simple but definitely makes a big
difference and it’s something that you guys are gonna want to do whether you do
this alone or with a friend that’s up to you but you do also want to make sure
while you’re doing this that speed up slow down you’re still monitoring all
those vital things water temperature oil temperature oil pressure that sort of
stuff to make sure that there’s nothing going wrong with the rest of your
systems many people that have built a motor generally will talk to their tuner
and they’ll get kind of what’s considered a base map or kind of a limp
map to allow them to start the car to potentially break in the car and then
even some cases to limp it to the dyno if they choose not to trailer it there’s
some things you’re going to need to consider there and this is again where
it’s very important to monitor those vitals you guys are watching things like
oil pressure oil temp and you’re not watching air fuel you could run into
problems whether it’s leaner rich shouldn’t cause
catastrophic and unrepairable damage to that brand-new engine you just put in
your car so make sure you keep an eye on your air fuel ratios throughout the
entirety of this break-in process congratulations we have a successful
maiden voyage you guys have made at home you drove 30 to 50 miles you varied your
engine speed you did a lot of those those vacuum pulls too to really seat
those engine rings the big thing you need to do now is change your oil what
we’re going to be doing here is we’re pulling that engine oil out we’re gonna
be inspecting in that oil we’re looking for things like contaminants maybe metal
shrapnel in there you’re also going to want to do that same thing with the oil
filter it’s a huge opportunity for you guys to catch things early on and
potentially prevent big issues from that may come in the future after you’ve drained that break in oil
what we’re gonna go ahead and do is replace it with more break-in oil we
still want to keep that high-quality break-in oil in this motor with that
high zinc content to really make everything seal and to give you the best
longevity and performance out of your motor once you’ve done that at the 30 to
50 mile range got in your garage you drained it you replaced it we’re gonna
run that break-in oil this time up to about 500 miles and that is your first
oil change where you will go ahead and switch over to synthetic or whatever oil
you want to run in that car as you move forward at 500 miles that’s where we
consider your engine fully broken in you’ve you’ve primed it you’re safe you
primed it you started it your heat cycled it you ran a couple miles you
drain some oil you ran up to 500 miles you drain the oil again now go ahead and
for whatever oil you want in it take it to your tuner take it to the racetrack
put it through its paces at this point if you followed all the steps I’ve given
you today you should have a really healthy engine on your hands that should
be able to take anything you can throw at it bonus pro tip for you guys make sure
that if you’re reusing any parts from a previous engine whether it be internal
parts or even such things as a cylinder head or an oil cooler kit that you
properly clean those before you put them on a new motor there’s no easier way to
destroy this huge investment you just made than to put on an oil cooler that
has shrapnel in it or to reuse a cylinder head that is warped or damaged
those things we see quite commonly especially because we sell a lot of
these short blocks we find at home mechanics putting on used parts that
have not been properly prepared to be bolted on to a new engine Onis bonus tip
for those of you that are getting a fully forged motor you guys are building
a motor for the first time or maybe this is your first time owning a built motor
there’s definitely a lot of considerations you want to make they’re
not gonna run exactly like an OEM motor they’re gonna be built with the purpose
and mind so when we build an engine it may have a little bit looser tolerances
than a factory engine a lot of people will really see that in the symptoms of
maybe more oil usage than what they had with their factory motor potentially
even more noise coming from that engine and they had with a factory motor those
are things you’re gonna want to talk with us about whoever you choose we are
engine builder there’s definitely a lot of variables that play into that and
depending on how you’re gonna use that motor thinking ahead and talking with
the engine builder to give them that insight will result in a better end
product for you because all of these gaps any of the clearances that are in
this motor are blueprinted and done by hand by a trained professional if you’re
buying from us and they can vary those tolerances and the way that that’s built
and they suit it to your needs and your desires from your car so make sure those
are things you’re aware of when you first get a built motor so that you
don’t just go online and start saying my motors loud or it’s using oil think
about those things it’s a race engine treat it like a race engine and be
prepared to deal with some of the downsides to owning a race engine in
your car guys I’m really happy to have shared this knowledge with you obviously
you can go ahead and do it go to our website you can download our
complete engine break-in checklist for yourself as well hopefully you enjoyed
today’s content go and leave a comment below give me your experiences that
you’ve had with braking and motors maybe all I can share some of my own I got a
few funny stories from the first time I built an engine where I actually put
assembly Lube on the outside of the main bearings rather than on the inside
journals of the main bearing feel free to pick on me in the comments below
thanks for watching guys hopefully you enjoyed today’s video

Author:

13 thoughts on “Proper Engine Break In Procedure”

  • Copper Key Racing says:

    I prefer to leave everything under the hood the same, except the built engine, so that the old tune will work great for the break in tune. Then, I prefer to use the mototune method of break-in. After 20miles or so, that engine is broken in, no need to worry about it. If you want to apply the wait and see method, drive it for 500miles, then start making changes under the hood, tuning it, etc. I skip the 500miles, personally, go to my oil of choice, and start the changes and tuning I want. I've built many this way, without a hitch. Never had a problem, never had an engine go bad, always have had healthy motors comments come out of the mouths of my customers, third parties, and competitors.

  • I did my first oil change after my cam break in. Than put about 500 miles on my jeep just to be safe than started romping on it and playing with the tune. Been fine since. 2k miles later, still perfect.

  • Running the engine on the spot is NOT going to make the rings seal, quiet the opposite, you need to drive and load the engine to push the rings into the bore to file them, this all happens in the first 30Km or 20 mins, after that you have lost your chance to make a proper ring seal. Also no solid bucket/lifter Jap engine requires break in on cam followers. Worst thing you can do to a new engine is idle it or run on the spot with out driving for 20-30mins.

  • I can't relate since I'm on a stock motor 😂 but what i did when i bought it brand new was not rev it more than 3-4k for the first 500-600 miles

  • So do you guys think it's okay to use stock cylander heads after they have been machined and cleaned? Or should you get aftermarket cylinder heads and what's the main difference?

  • Marvellous Job, I really enjoyed it!, See this New Album 'Monish Jasbird – Death Blow', channel link www.youtube.com/channel/UCv_x5rlxirO-WKjLIyk6okQ?sub_confirmation=1 , you may like it 🙂

  • I saw on one of RHD Kev's videos that he didn't press the clutch on his brand new engine. Something with thrust bearings. Can you elaborate?

  • Lolz.
    You immediately drive the car or put a load on it.
    If you idle or sit in place revving for the first 20 mins, your ring seal will be very subpar.

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