#8 Санки из газет Мастер-класс от А до Я  DIY Newspaper Sledge Weaving Tutorial. ENGLISH SUBTITLES.

#8 Санки из газет Мастер-класс от А до Я DIY Newspaper Sledge Weaving Tutorial. ENGLISH SUBTITLES.

Tutorial with Nina
SILVER SLEDGE FROM NEWSPAPER Hi, guys! The winter covered the earth with the sparkling snow, so it’s time to sledge! Today we’re going to weave the silver color sledge and patinate them to make them look like covered with snow. Let’s weave together! The materials and equipment used are listed in the description down below. We are using the newspaper tubes made from newspaper or blank newsprint from a stationery shop. Its density has to be as thin as a newspaper. Cut blank edges of the newspaper, because prints can’t be stained. Before cutting, try to make a sample tube from one edge and from another. A newspaper has a specific direction of fibers, so it can only be rolled on one side along the fibers. Cut the paper into 7 cm stripes and 10 cm stripes. 10 cm stripes are used to make the base tubes, which use for forming the basis of the basket. Because of stripes are wide, the base tubes become durable. Weaving tubes are made from the 7 cm newsprint stripes. They are softer and more convenient for weaving. A4 newsprint has 21 cm width, therefore it can be cut into 7 cm width stripes to get 3 tubes for weaving. It can also be cut in half to get two 10.5 cm stripes for the base tubes. To roll the tubes, we’re using 1.5 mm knitting needle. To make the tube colorless, start rolling from the printed edge. Place it on the corner at an acute angle and roll the tube pretty tight from the very beginning. This is important, because the tube has to be dense for better looking in the weaving. Fix the knitting needle in the corner and roll the tube with both hands. Holding the end of the tube, pull out the knitting needle. If it’s hard to do, then the tube rolled properly. Drip a drop of PVA glue on the corner, roll and hold for a while to attach it. Use wet wipes to clean your hands. The thickness of the tube has to be the same over the entire length. If you are using the water resistant glue, even a few hours is enough to dry it up before staining. If the not water resistant glue was used, 24 hours of drying is required. All the tubes, weaving and base, are rolled by the same method. So roll weaving tubes from newsprint as well as from newspaper. When the tubes dries, start staining. Before weaving, we have to prepare the base box and determine the quantity of the base tubes. They are glued to the cardboard bottom on a distance of 1.5 – 2 mm from each other. I want to use a minimum distance of 1.5 mm, but to know for sure, I need to measure the base box perimeter. But first, to give a particular shape to the base, I’m going to attach a piece of cardboard using scotch tape. Place something heavy and bulky inside the base box to keep it in shape. Cover the base box with food wrapping film to keep it clean during painting and priming and make a handle from scotch tape, so at the end it’ll be easy to take the base box out. Now I’m going to wrap the base box, attach the cardboard using scotch, and then wrap it again with the cardboard. Put another weight on the cardboard to fixate it and cut the cardboard to the required height. The backrest is 14 cm height. The weaving height is higher here, and I think that’s enough for my sledge. Now, wrap the base box again and make the handle. This is how my base box looks. The handle was made properly and should hold heavy weight. The complex form of the base box resembles a sledge, so I hope, we can weave the right shape of the sledge. Now we’re able to measure the perimeter of the base box. It expands from the bottom to the top, and we need to measure the lower and middle perimeter. Ideally, we should also measure the upper perimeter, but it’s hard to do, so it’ll come out later, based on the lower and middle perimeter. The lower perimeter is 57 cm, the middle one is 63 cm. Divide middle diameter 63 cm by a distance close to the minimum. Let’s take 1.6 mm distance between base tubes, and get about 40 base tubes. Now, count the distance between base tubes in the bottom. Perimeter 57 mm divided into 40 base tubes gives us a distance of 1.4 mm, which works for us. The distance at the top will be even wider, about 1.7 mm, which is also appropriate. Let’s stain the tubes. 40 base tubes and most of the weaving tubes is stained by ebony wood stain and water mixed in a 1:1 ratio. Mix 100 grams of water and 100 grams of stain. About 20 base tubes is painted in white color. To do this, mix white primer with acrylic enamel for radiators. Painting is necessary, because the newsprint has a grey tone, but I want the tubes to be pure white. Shake the primer, stir up the enamel, pour approximately 50 grams of the primer, then add 1/4 spoon of the enamel. Mix the solution thoroughly. You can use the brush. Then make the stain solution. Shake the stain, pour 100 gram to the container, add 100 gram water to the stain, and mix the solution. First, paint the tubes in white, then stain the other tubes in ebony wood. Paint the tubes rolling them back and forth. First, paint from one side and then from the other. Let the excess paint to flow down. Use two additional tubes as stands to leave space under the tubes for better drying. Make sure they don’t touch each other and rotate them from time to time for even coloring. When you’re done with white color, wipe the plastic sheet with a wet cloth, wash the brush, and stain the other tubes. Dry in the same way. The base tubes have to be dried for 24 hours, so they become firm and keep the shape of the product. As for the weaving tubes, 12 hours of drying is enough. Afterwards, all the tubes, white and dark, are covered with varnish and water solution which makes them more elastic. If you don’t want to do this, just dry the tubes for a couple of hours. To keep the tubes moist, wrap them into a plastic bag of file, leaving the edges to be dry out and connect better to each other. Keep the tubes in plastic for no longer than 24 hours to prevent their spoiling. When you dry the tubes aflat, they can be unevenly colored, some parts are whiter, others darker. To prevent this, you can dry the tubes vertically, the glued part on the bottom. Spread them evenly in the container and mix from time to time. In this way, the paint flows down and the color of the tubes is going to be even. For me it doesn’t matter, because I’m going to patinate the tubes, and the uneven color will be painted. Let’s make the bottom. In accordance with the size of the bottom of the base box, cut two pieces of wallpaper, two pieces of a cardboard and glue them together. The first pair is done, and now I’m going to cut out the second one. Outline the bottom on the cardboard, then cut out with 1 mm indent inside. The cardboard piece is done. In the wallpaper, select the fragment you like and place the base box there. Distance between the box and the edge should be at least 1 cm, because we need space for gluing to the cardboard. Outline the box with the pencil to be able to erase the trace afterwards. Cut indented 1 cm to the outside. Cut the edge into triangles leaving about 2 mm to the drawn line. Now the edge on the fold will look good. Bend all the triangles along the line. Start gluing the cardboard to the wallpaper. Place a dry napkin to keep the table clean and prepare a piece of cardboard to smear the glue. I’m going to use the polymer glue. It dries fast, so hurry up. Pour the glue to the wallpaper evenly, let it dry for one minute, place the cardboard in the middle, and press tightly. Then pour the glue on the edges and attach them inside. Well done. Glue the second pair in the same way and let them dry for 1-2 hours. To make the bottom flat, cover it with a plastic bag or file and put something heavy on top. The bottoms are ready, the tubes are dry, and now we can stick the tubes between the bottoms. Mark the places where the tubes will be glued. At first, mark the center, then find four more points to draw two axes. We’ve got 4 sectors. We’ll going to glue four tubes to the lines. Divide the remaining 36 tubes by 4 and get 9 tubes in each sector, which should be placed evenly. As we calculated earlier, the bottom perimeter is 57 cm, which means that each sector has a length of 14.25 cm. Divide them in half and get the sectors of 7.15 cm long. Now, we have to place 4 tubes in each sector. Therefore, mark four points at a distance of 1.4 cm from each other. This way of marking allows you to avoid mistakes and make the distance between the base tubes even. Now the base tubes can be glued along the lines. Attach the tubes from the glued side, since they are more dense there. However, cut a little from the edges, because, as you can see, the glued parts have become darker, so they should be hidden. Narrow them down and start gluing. Before gluing, lay a napkin to keep the table clean. Apply a thin layer of polymer glue alone each line for about 2 cm from the edge. Spread the glue and let it dry for 2 minutes. Attach the tubes. Align them and press tightly. Attach the other tubes in the same way. All the tubes are glued. Before covering with the second part of the bottom, press the tubes again especially near the edge. Then pour the glue on the entire surface and spread it pretty quickly. Center the second part of the bottom and press it tightly. Let it dry for a few hours. Place it between plastic bags and put something heavy on top. To make the tubes elastic, coat them with varnish and water solution and dry with a hair dryer to prevent sticking together. To do this, mix the varnish and water in ratio of 1:2. Pour water, add the varnish and stir up thoroughly. For better stirring, you can use the brush. Varnish the tubes using the same method which we used to stain them rolling back and forth. Dry the external side with a hair dryer. Dry during one minute with warm air, not hot. You should catch the moment when the tubes are wet inside and dry outside In this case, the tubes are very plastic and at the same time are not fragile. Weaving with these tubes is easy and looks good. If you don’t have a hair dryer, dry the tubes on stands. Just make sure, they don’t touch each other and don’t stick together. To keep the tubes wet, wrap them into a plastic file with their edges outward, as I’ve shown earlier. Leave them so until the beginning of the weaving. Let’s begin weaving our sledge. We’re going to lift up the base tubes and weave around them. But first, coat the base tubes near the bottom with varnish-water solution as we used for the weaving tubes to prevent them from breaking. Apply the solution at a distance of no more than one cm from the bottom, the remaining parts have to be dry. Start to weave using 3 tubes. This method is called Triple Straight Rope Glue one weaving tube to one base tube from above. Like that. Before gluing, cut non-glued edges of the tubes at a right angle to make them even. Also, during the weaving, cut them from the other tubes to make the connections easy. Narrow the edges and drip a drop of the glue. Attach them to the base tube from above, press and wait until the glue dries. This is how it looks from the top. Later, the connection points will be hidden by the weaving. Pull the weaving tubes forward, lift the base tubes up, and start to weave the first row without the base box inside. Hold the tubes and weave tightly. Start weaving with the left tube. Place it aver two glued tubes, at the same time in front of the two base tubes and behind the third free tube. Make a small dent at the intersection, then pull the tube forward. Again, grab the left tube, place it in front of two base tubes and behind the next free one. During the weaving, lift up the entire base tubes and continue on weaving. To hide the transition between the bottom and the sidewall, press the weaving and pull up the base tubes. It’s time to elongate the tubes. You can see that the connection point has to be behind the weaving tubes to be hidden. Notice the place where the tube is woven around the post and cut it at a distance of 1.5 cm after this base tube at an acute angle. Narrow the edge, drip the glue, and insert the next tube with non-glued edge. It’s no need to apply the glue, because it’s pressed by the weaving. Do the same with the other tubes. Cut off the glued edge, because it’s rough and won’t look good in the weaving. Weave until the end of the round row. The last bend is made. Mark the very first tube with a rubber band. Now, according to the pattern, the left tube should’ve been bent behind the marked base tube, but for better ending, we’re going to use a different method. Start with the right tube. Place this tube behind the 3rd base tube, where it should’ve been. Do the same with the middle tube. The tube, which should’ve gone first, is now the last. In this way, the end of the row looks more beautiful. Adjust the tubes. Take three weaving tubes in front, because now we’re going to weave Triple Reverse Rope. The principle of this rope, that the left tube passes not under two weaving tubes, but above them. Place it behind the third base tube as well. Try to keep the base tubes at right angles to the bottom. We’re still weaving the second row without the base box inside. Press the weaving immediately. This is what we got at the end of the row. Combination of Straight and Reverse Rope makes a good looking pigtail pattern. Also, weaving from three tubes makes the pigtail voluminous, so it hides the gap between two parts of the bottom well. Ones again, press two rows to each other. We use the different elongating method this time, because the connection point has to be hidden under two weaving tubes. So cut the edge at a distance of about 1 cm from the base tube, narrow it down, insert the next tube and place it behind the base tube. The next tube hides this connection point. Extend the others tubes in the same way. Weave until the first marked base tube and start closing the row. Place the left tube under two weaving tubes and behind the 3rd base tube. Insert the next tube under one weaving tube, near the marked post. Insert the last tube under two weaving tubes, near the next post. Pull the tubes, adjust them according to the pattern, and glue from the inside. Cut the edges at an acute angle and glue invisibly. Continue using Calico weaving. When the number of base tubes is odd, it’s woven with one tube, but the number of our base tubes is even, so we need 2 tubes. Weave the first row with one tube and the second row with another one. Therefore, weave alternating two weaving tubes. Glue weaving tubes behind the base tubes. Start to weave with the tube glued behind the marked base tube. The method is quite easy – place the tube in front of the first base tube and behind the second one. Slightly dent the weaving tube. Continue in the same way – in front of the first post and behind the second. Make sure the base tubes are on the same distance from each other. Don’t forget to press the weaving. Put the base box inside and keep on weaving tightly. Elongating the tube, the connection point has to be hidden behind the base tube. Preferably, it should be 2 mm to the left of the base tube to be completely hidden by the next weaving tube. Cut off the edge almost behind the base tube. Now it’s almost invisible in the front side. Keep on weaving. At the end of the round row, change the tubes and continue weaving with the other tube. Having the even number of base tubes, we have to alternate the weaving tubes, because otherwise we would make the same pattern on each base tube, but we have to change the pattern and place the tubes in turn in front and behind each base tube. Weaving with two tubes gives as the necessary Calico waving. At the end of the 2nd row, change the tubes again and start weaving the 3rd row with the first tube. Weave few rows, alternating the tubes. 11 rows are woven and now I’m going to weave the same pigtail we’ve made in the beginning. As you remember, it’s combination of Triple Straight and Reverse ropes. Place one tube behind the marked base tube, and the other one behind the right base tube to begin weaving starting from the marked base tube. Glue the third weaving tube behind the next base tube. Begin weaving with Triple Straight rope. starting from the left tube. Complete the row in the same way we’ve done before. Weave the next row with Triple Reverse rope. At the end of the row, take away the base box and hide the edges. Press the weaving. Now we’re going to continue with white tubes. Weave the pigtail again with Triple Straight and Reverse ropes. Also start forming the backrest lifting up the pigtail. I’m using clothespin, one on each side and three times two in the middle to increase the level. I’m going to start weaving from the back of the sledge, because it’s more convenient. Mark the middle base tube and glue 3 weaving tubes. Begin weaving with Triple Straight rope. When three tubes left before the first clothespin, start slowly lifting up the pigtail. Make sure the lifting is smooth. Continue lifting up to the next level. Try to weave tightly. After descent, continue weaving until the end of the row. Weave the next row with Triple Reverse rope. Keep the same height as the previous round row. At the end of the row, hide the edges. This is how it looks like. Press the pigtail to make it look good. At the last stage, we’re again going to weave the same pigtail, two rows with Triple Straight and Reverse ropes lifting up for one more level. But first, we have to fixate the existing pigtail. To do this, we have to varnish the sledge without taking off the clothespins. We’re using the same varnish and water solution we used to cover the tubes, but I poured more varnish to make it more concentrated. Varnish the sledge from the front side spreading thoroughly. After this, let it dry for 12 hours. The sledge has dried, and now the white pigtail fixated well and isn’t going to fall. I moved the clothespins to the upper level. Now, I’m going to weave the next round row with the same pigtail, but in a dark color. This is what we got. Don’t remove the clothespins before varnishing the sledge and fixating the top pigtail. The next step is to hide the base tubes. I’m going to bend them to the left and insert into the next base tube. To prevent the tubes from breaking, at a distance of 2 cm from the top of the sledge, cover them with varnish and water solution to make the tubes plastic. Insert the base tubes from the inside. Expand the gap near to the next base tube, bend the tube to the right, dent the inserting point, and cut at an acute angle on a distance of about 5 mm. Narrow the edge, drip the drop of glue and insert. Insert the other tubes in the same way. I inserted the part of the tubes and decided to cut the tops of the rest for convenience. Also, the glue too softens the tubes, so I decided to insert them without gluing. We’re going to varnish the sledge and the edges will be fixated anyway. The bending is finished. Adjust all the edges so that they lie properly. Do this while the the tubes are still elastic, because after varnishing, nothing can be corrected. This is how it looks from above. I deliberately inclined the edges a little inside, because, in my opinion, it looks better that way and has a more expressed texture. Now, we just have to coat the top, the bending line to fixate the edges of the tubes, and the inside of the sledge. Spread the mixture thoroughly all around the sledge and let it dry. While the weaving is still wet, correct the shape of the sledge to make it look evenly. After the edge has been inclined, we can’t put the base box inside, but it’s not important to us any more, because after the first coating the sledge are already in shape. The sledge has dried up and become solid. Later, we’re going to patinate the sledge to make it look like covered with snow. In the end, we’re going to stain the sledge with acrylic varnish. But now, I should make the runners. We’re going to use dried up base tubes, and insert the wire inside them. You can use steel, copper or crochet wire. It has to be 0.8 mm in diameter to fit inside the tube. You can buy it in a hardware store. We also need nippers. Insert the wire inside the tube. We also need the wire into the tubes to bend the runners and make them stiff to ease the weaving. When the wire reached the end, insert the other tube. Then continue to insert the wire into the second tube. Now, you can bent the tubes and begin weaving. We use plastic weaving tubes, which were coated with varnish and water mixture. Drip a drop of glue on the tube. Attach the tube in the middle and start weaving. Make the first loop, and go to the left, and then to the right. Keep on weaving. Weave around the left and right sides alternately. Gradually increase the width of the runners. When the tube ends, extend it in the middle of the runner. Dent the junction point, cut the edge at a distance of about 5 mm at an acute angle, then insert the next tube. The connection is successfully hidden. Press the waving tightly. When the distance reaches 3.5 cm, stop increasing, and hold the base tubes parallel to each other. From now on, make sure the distance remains constant. I got something that reminds a runner 🙂 During the weaving, adjust a runner constantly to make it even. Later we’re going to varnish the runners and place them under the press. We’re going to get something like this. Now I have to elongate the base tubes again, because they are not long enough. Leave the longer wires in the very beginning, then you don’t have to extend them, as I do. Then insert the tube with a wide edge on the narrow one and drip a drop of glue. Cut off this tube in half and insert the narrow glued edge of this half into the wide edge of the other tube. Continue weaving a little longer, approximately to this point. Runner is almost ready and, to keep it even, press and adjust the weaving. Let’s see if the length of the runner is enough. I think, it looks good on both sides, front and back. So, it’s time to finish it. Cut off the edge and hide it in the weaving. Drip a drop of glue, press firmly and hold for a while to allow the glue to dry. You can also glue the weaving to the base tubes. The glue has dried and now we can hide the base tubes. Bend the tubes at a distance of about 5 mm from the weaving. There is a wire inside, so it’s pretty easy to do. Bend both base tubes at right angles, place them parallel to each other, cut off the edges, glue them together, and weave around the end. For better connection and faster drying use a polymer glue. Press the tubes firmly and hold for a while making them flat. Glue the weaving tube to the bottom of the base tube, fixate it, and weave around pretty firmly. Almost done. Make sure that at the corners the weaving tube hides the cut edges of the base tubes. Glue the edge to the weaving. Cut it off at an acute angle, press firmly with a small scissors. On the back side, the runner also looks nice. While the weaving is still elastic, adjust and align it, and slightly bend the back side. It looks better this way. So, the first runner is finished. Now, weave the second runner trying to make it as similar as possible to the first one. When the second runner is done, place the top part to see how our sledge looks. Unfortunately, we can’t get a 100% similarity, but they look almost identical, and most importantly they have the same length. Now we can patinate the runners and the sledge in the protruding parts to make the snow cover effect. Apply acrylic enamel on the sponge. Drip only a drop, the sponge has to be almost dry and start with the runner. Dip a piece of the sponge into the enamel and remove the excess. Apply enamel more intensive around the edges and less toward the middle. Do the same on the back side. It’s okay if you applied more enamel than you wanted, You can always grind the excess by the rough side of the sponge. To keep the enamel clean, it’s better to pour it into a small vessel. It’s also desirable to wear gloves to protect your hands. The runners are ready. During drying, the color becomes more white. After drying, you can correct the color remove the excess or add a lack of white. Now, patinate the bottom pigtail of the sledges. Also apply the enamel on top dark pigtails, outside and inside. At the top, I decided to patinate without blurring, just touching to make a speckle effect. Do the same with the other brown pigtail. Patinate the second dark pigtail from the inside. To make the transition smoother, apply a little enamel to the bottom pigtail from the inside. That what we’ve got here. The combination of different patination styles looks very nice on our sledge. Inside view. Now, patinate slightly the base tubes. Not too much, just a couple of speckles. Well done. We already covered the sledge with varnish and water solution, so now we just have to varnish them. Now, we have to coat the runners, put them under the press, and let them dry up to be solid. Apply the same varnish and water solution that we used for the sledge. Spread it thoroughly. Three hours have passed since the runners were covered with enamel, so they are now dry and can be covered with the mixture. Before pressing, dry them slightly with a hair dryer. Cover with a plastic sheet and put something heavy. Allow the runners to dry for about 12 hours. The runners dried up and became flat and hard. Now, we just have to glue the sledge and the runners together with polymer glue, and cover with acrylic varnish to make them shine. Glue to the bottom of the sledge on the back side. The runners have to be parallel to the bottom at a distance of about 2 mm beyond to cover the gap between the bottom and the weaving. Also the distance between the runners has to be the same. Outline the runners with a pencil to find out where to pour the glue. Pour the glue on the marked areas. There need to be a lot of glue to prevent unsticking. Place the runners and press tightly. Put something heavy inside and let it dry for a couple hours. When the glue dries, cover with acrylic enamel. For finishing, we’re going to use the glossy acrylic enamel. Shake it up and pour into a vessel. If it’s too concentrated, add water. Use a large brush with artificial bristles and a small one to then spread the excess of the varnish. Don’t use too much varnish to prevent excesses, that are hard to get rid of. I chose a glossy varnish, because I want my sledge to sparkle, and the snow patina to shine. If your bottom made from paper, it should also be varnished. If you use vinyl or flizelin wallpaper, then there’s no such need, because they have their own coating. I’ve used the vinyl wallpaper, so I won’t varnish it. Varnish the entire surface and let it dry for a while. 10 minutes after applying the varnish with a large brush, remove the excess with a small brush. Now it’s time to decorate the sledge. I have an appropriate lace, and I’m going to attach it to the both sides of the sledge with polymer glue. You can decorate your sledge as you like. Melt the edges to prevent unraveling or just bend and glue them. Mark the middle of the surface drip the drops of polymer glue on the lace and attach it to the sledge. Place the lace directly in the middle and press it firmly all over. Do the same on the other side. Our sledge is ready. It turned out very adorable and with a unique backrest. The bottom is nice. Three pigtails look great on the top of the sledge, and the silver lace is beautiful. The runners are pretty, and the patina gives the fresh frost effect and the sledge looks as if covered with snow. The sledge is very firm. It can be washed slightly and wiped with a damp cloth. I’m sure that your sledge also came out so beautiful and marvelous. I hope my tutorial was useful and you liked it.


26 thoughts on “#8 Санки из газет Мастер-класс от А до Я DIY Newspaper Sledge Weaving Tutorial. ENGLISH SUBTITLES.”

  • Татьяна Токарева says:

    Не санки, а просто шедевр! Вы так хорошо все объясняете, подробно и понятно. Спасибо большое.

  • Нарезка по времени:
    0:45 Нарезаем полоски и крутим трубочки
    5:13 Делаем спинку и готовим основу
    8:22 Измеряем основу
    9:45 Покраска трубочек
    14:48 Делаем картонное донышко
    18:49 Приклеиваем к донышку стоечки-основы
    23:24 Делаем трубочки для плетения пластичными: лак+вода+фен
    25:27 Плетение санок
    43:37 и 48:36 и 1:04:55 Грунтовка санок
    45:56 Заправляем стоечки основы в плетение
    50:04 Плетём полозья для санок
    1:00:22 Патинирование санок
    1:06:38 Приклеиваем полозья к санкам
    1:08:08 Финишное покрытие акриловым лаком
    1:09:49 Украшение санок

    0:45 Cutting the stripes and rolling up the tubes.
    5:13 Making the backrest and the base.
    8:22 Measuring the base.
    9:45 Staining the tubes.
    14:48 Making the cardboard bottom.
    18:49 Sticking the bottom with the base tubes.
    23:24 Making the tubes being more elastic using the hair dryer.
    25:27 Weaving the sleigh.
    43:37, 48:36 and 1:04:55 Priming the sleigh.
    45:56 Inserting the base tubes into the weaving.
    50:04 Weaving the runners.
    1:00:22 Patinating the sleigh.
    1:06:38 Sticking together the runners and the sledge.
    1:08:08 Staining by the acrylic varnish.
    1:09:49 Decorating the sleigh.

  • Татьяна Куликова says:


  • Соня Аханова says:

    Красивые саночки! Купила такую де форму в фикспрайсе, а у нее дно немного кривое

  • Вы прсто умница так акуратно у меня не получается.У нас нет таких лако крас.средств не качественные даже труб.не получаются эластичными очень обидно что не получ.красивые вещи.Я за вас рада удачи.

  • Ольга Буланова шитьё,вышивка,цветы says:

    Очень красивые санки вышли.Нина,золотые ручки у тебя.МАСТЕРИЦА👍👍👍🌹🌹🌹👏👏👏👏

  • Larisa Vetokhina says:

    Нина, очаровательные саночки, получились старинные и интересные. Мастер-класс хороший!

  • наташа пшенко says:

    Как будто в кино сходила на захватывающий фильм.Очень интересный мастер-класс.Саночки – чудо! Ниночка, спасибо большое за подробное видео, все ясно и понятно, даже вопросов нет. Удачи! С нетерпением буду ждать Ваши новые видео, а тем временем займусь саночками к Новому году.

  • Инна Неделько says:

    Очень круто! Спасибо за такой подробный и понятный МК. Обязательно попробую сделать, правда опыт в плетении минимальный, поэтому так важны все моменты. Еще раз спасибо.

  • Natali Kalinichenko78 says:

    Санки загляденье, такие аккуратненькие 👍👍👍спасибо за идею. С наступающим Новым годом!

  • Хельга Ржевская says:

    Прекрасная работа!
    Идеальная работа!
    Работа мастера!

  • Fialka Fialkovay says:

    Нина, очень красиво, идеально, а главное понятно, спасибо за урок.

  • Super ślicznie 😍czy po pomalowaniu rurek bejcą malujesz jeszcze lakierem z wodą? Już wiem że malujesz bo było dalej😊a czy nie można dodać lakieru od razu do roztworu którym się maluje np. bejcą?

  • Людмила Агаркова says:

    Мастерица супер !!! Без лишних слов ,все по делу !!! 👍👍👍❤

  • Ірина Орнацька says:

    Уважаемая Нина! Не смогла сдержаться, чтобы не выразить свое восхищение вашими работами – они такие красивые и аккуратные, просто идеальные! А ваши МК это просто песня, смотришь и все понятно, и ничего лишнего. Огромное спасибо! Саночки удивительные!

  • Юлия Орлова says:

    Реально ли сделать такое чудо человеку, который ни разу не держал трубочки в руках? Или стоит начать с чего попроще?

  • Ирина Некрасова says:

    Очень приятно смотреть Ваши МК) Ваши уроки спокойные, все очень понятно, придают уверенность и рождают вдохновение. Спасибо Вам!

  • Галина Воротникова says:

    очень приятно смотреть Ваш мк все на высшем уровне а саночки -сказка спасибо

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