#7 Корзинка Меланж Мастер-класс от А до Я  DIY Newspaper Basket Weaving Tutorial ENGLISH SUBTITLES

#7 Корзинка Меланж Мастер-класс от А до Я DIY Newspaper Basket Weaving Tutorial ENGLISH SUBTITLES

MELANGE BASKET FROM NEWSPAPER TUBES WITH PINE NUTS Hello, guys! Fall painted the nature with bright melange colors, and it inspires me to weave a melange box using various tones of maple color and decorate it with natural pine nuts. I invite you to weave with me. Welcome to my tutorial. List of necessary materials you can find in the video description. We’ll going to use newspaper stripes to make tubes like these. They are white, because we use newspaper stripes with white edges. We can’t use both sides of newspaper, because fiber are arranged in one direction, and tubes are rolled well along one side, and bad along the other one. You have to try to cut the stripes from the both sides, and figure out which side is better for rolling tubes. We need two types of the stripes, some are narrow – 7 cm, the others are wide – 10 cm. The tubes made from 10 cm stripes are firmer and will be used as base tubes. Accordingly, the tubes made from 7 cm stripes are softer and more flexible and will be used as weaving tubes. Both tubes will be rolled in the same way. Take the 1.5 mm diameter knitting needle, place it to the letter side at an acute angle, fix it in the corner, and roll the tube tightly. At the very end, take out the spoke, drip a drop of glue and make final rollings. Hold it for a while so that the tube doesn’t unroll. It’s very important that the tube is uniform over the entire length, so as the basket looks beautiful. Allow the tubes to dry for 24 hours, then you can start painting. Let’s count how many base tubes we need. I’m going to use this plastic container as a base. Base tubes should be at a distance of about 1.5 to 2 cm from each other. I take the maximum, about 2 cm. I have to measure the perimeter of the base from below and from above, because they differ in size. It’s 64 cm from below and 69 cm from above. Let’s count. Divide 64 (the bottom diameter) by 2 (the distance between posts) and get 32 base tubes. Now divide 69 (the top diameter) by 2 (the distance between posts) and get 34 base tubes. But 32 is better suited for our purposes, so we’ll use this number. Also, for starting the bottom we need 16 tubes, which will be glued as shown. Then, to the ends of this tubes we will glue 32 tubes, which well be used for weaving side walls. Thus, for painting we will need 32 plus 16, all together 48 base tubes. So, let’s paint the tubes. The stain gives tubes the color of natural vine. Mixing it with water in different proportions, we can get a light, medium or dark shade. We need three jars for mixing stain. In the first jar we’re preparing a lighter tone, in second medium tone and in third a darker tone. The darkest tone won’t be mixed with water, just natural stain, color Maple. So, pour in the first jar two parts of water, in the second one part of water, and leave the third empty. Shake the stain, and add it the the all three jars. Stir the solutions. Now we have to paint the sample tubes to see what color they will get. The color of the tubes after drying is quite satisfactory. So, let’s start painting all the tubes. The base tubes will be painted in the darkest tone. In order not to mix up the jars, as they have a similar color of the solution, I marked the lightest color as one, medium color as two, and unmixed stain as three. First we paint the tubes on one side, then turn and paint on the other. Paint rolling the tubes forward and back. Begin from the lightest tone. Wipe the surface after changing color. Place the painted tubes to the two additional tubes. In this case, they will be ventilated better. Dry them during 12 hours. Then we will cover them with special solution for plasticity. I’ll show that later. Paint all weaving tubes in the same way: in three different tones, in equal proportions. Paint base tubes in the darkest color from jar 3. Move from time to time. The base tubes have to be dried during one day, because they have to be firm and hold the shape. When the tubes are dried horizontally, they could be painted unevenly. One side could be darker, the other lighter. If you want the tubes to be painted evenly, they have to be placed vertically to allow the stain to drain. But I like uneven painting better, because I want my box to be of a melange color, the mixture of different tones. To make tube more plastic, we will cover them with the mixture of acrylic varnish and water and dry them with a hair dryer to avoid gluing. Mix varnish and water in the proportion of one to two – one part of varnish and two parts of water. Pour water, add varnish and stir thoroughly. For better stirring you can use a brush. Cover the tubes in the same way as you painted them. Cover the tubes from the one side, rolling them. Then do the same from the other side. Now the tubes have to be dried slightly by a hair dryer. If you don’t have a hair dryer you can use the oven or even just let them dry on the air, as they were dried after staining. They have to be dried by a hair dryer just for one minute. It’s important that the air temperature of the hair dryer isn’t hot, but warm. That’s how the tubes look like after drying. It’s important to catch the golden mean: the outer layer should be dried, but the inner layer remains moist. Now, to keep the tubes moist, wrap them to the plastic file leaving the tips uncovered to let them dry for better joining in the future. Keep them in plastic before beginning weaving. If you don’t intend to weave right away, keep the tubes in plastic no more then one day, or they will be spoiled. It’s not necessary to cover the tubes with the varnish-water mixture, you can use just the wet tubes. In this way, after staining the tubes and let them dry slightly during a couple hours, you can also wrap them to the plastic to keep them wet before weaving. In this case, the weaving won’t be as beautiful as when the tubes are covered with the mixture. Let’s begin to weave the bottom. The base tubes dried up and now we will glue them criss-cross as was shown before. It will be the initial stage of the bottom. Pour some glue into the vessel. I prefer to use polymer glue, because it dries fast and stick the surfaces together firmly. Take the first four tubes and pour the glue in the middle. Spread it properly and let dry for a minute Now, take the next four tubes and place them in the middle. Then, press them very tightly. Place the next four tubes on top and also press them firmly. If the glue is flowing out, use a wet wipe. The last four tubes will be placed like that. They also have to be pressed firmly. The initial stage of the bottom dried up and ready to be weaved. The tubes are moisturized. Now, we are going to start weaving, alternating the tones in order to get a style of melange. The first row will be weaved by the darkest tubes, that it doesn’t stand out from the color of the bottom, which was stained in the darkest tone. So, use the two dark tubes. The glued edges are pretty rough, so they will be cut to make weaving look neat. The edges on the other side are also have some tails, and for better connection with the next tube, they need to be cut at right angles. Cut the place of gluing at an acute angle. Bend to make it more narrow, add polymer glue for better jointing, insert the cut edge into the other tube, and wait for a while until it is dried. Press a bit and bend the tubes. Weave around four tubes, starting from left to right. This method is called “Straight rope”. And don’t forget to press it firmly to the center of the bottom. We reached the end of the first row and now the lower tube has to be extended by the next tube. The junction has to be right between the tubes to make it hidden by the upper tube. We will merge the tubes on the opposite side. Cut off at the length of 7 mm from the junction point at an acute angle. Bend the tube, making it narrower, drip a drop of glue, and insert the next tube. Keep on weaving. The attached tube is the same stain color, so the second row will also have the dark color. But on the next rows we will use the tubes of the other tones. Weaving the bottom, we have to determine four sides right away, because the bottom is going to be in square shape. it’s necessary to press it firmly on the sides. So, I finished weaving the second row, and I’ll extend the lower tube with another one, which is lighter on tone. And further, weave around three tubes instead of the four and start to form the corners. On the corners we use two tubes instead of one, because they will be rounded. After fixing the corner tubes, keep on weaving around three tubes. Make the next elongation by the brightest tube. After finishing the third row, we can see the outline of the corners of the bottom. The 4th row will be weaved using the same method. The weaving density shouldn’t be tight on the corners. The 5th row will also be made by the same method. Don’t forget to alternate the tone of the tubes to create the style of melange. I’ve finished 5th row, and to understand where I have to finish, we need to designate the place where we started. I mark the first tube with a rubber band. I place the product on the bottom of the bowl that will be my base. It’s seen, that the directions of the tubes are made properly. and the corner tubes are parallel. In the next step we will separate one more tube and add it to the corner. The other two tubes still remain together and will be separated later. Continue weaving the 6th row in the same way. The 6th row is done. Don’t forget to form the square shape of the bottom. The 7th row will be also weaved in the same way. But on the 8th row we’ll separate the last pairs of the tubes and enlarge the corners. After reaching the two tubes on the corner, the upper weaving tube makes a loop around the first post. It adds volume to the corners. While bending around the post, try to place the tube over the loop to make it invisible. Now the lower weaving tube moves over the previous one, makes the loop around the second post in the same way as the previous one. Bend around the post, cover the loop, and lift the lower tube on top. In the end we got two loops. It’s necessary to make them as invisible as possible from the front. From now on, weave using the Straight rope. The name of the weaving with loops we used in the corners is “Double crochet.” That is how the corner looks from the opposite side. There are two loops there. We will hide them when weaving the next row. I’ve finished weaving the 8th row. The 9th row will be also weaved by Straight rope. Later, on the 10th row, we will enlarge the corners again. Weaving over the loops in the corner, try to cover them hiding the gaps as much as possible. And in the 10th row enlarge the corners again the same as in the 8th row. Continue until the end of the row. I’m comparing it again with the base bowl. It looks like that the only four rows left. Continue waving, alternating Straight rope and Double Crochet in the corners. The next 11th row is Straight rope. Weaving like that till the end of the bottom. It’s very important to keep the same distance between the base tubes. and press the tubes to make them lying evenly and nicely. And of course always press the edges to make them straight. I’ve weaved the last 14th row until the stand tube designated before. This is how it looks from the opposite side. The loops on the corners are covered by tubes properly from this side. Therefore, the loops are hided and almost unseen. The bottom exactly matches the shape of the base bowl. Now, let’s weave the sidewalls of the basket. Place the front side on the base bowl with the back side facing up. Center it on the base and slightly bend the base tubes. We’ll continue weaving using the general method, that is Straight rope, as in the 13th row, but only bending the base tubes little by little. Two rows will be weaved without using the base bowl, because it will be quite uncomfortable if we use it. But afterwards, we will weave with the base bowl inside. On this stage, when you’re bending the stand tubes, it is necessary to pull them a little and press the weaving tubes, otherwise the gaps between the tubes won’t look nice. Weaving the 16th row, bend the base tubes even more vertically. On the corner tubes weave the loops again. I thing, it will be the last time we’ve done them. Afterwards we will weave using only Straight rope. Center the product on the base bowl, adjust the vertical base tubes so they close-fitting the sidewalls of the bowl, align the distance between them, and press tightly on the edge to form the corner. Now, put something heavy on top to fix it, and continue on weaving. Cover the loops from the previous row hiding and making them invisible in the corner. I have finished the 18th row. The corners are formed and look appropriate. We can notice that the base tubes have became too short and should be elongated. I prepared 32 tubes for this purpose. We will insert them by the not glued side cutting off the little tails on the ends. Cut the edges of the base tubes at an acute angle at about one centimeter from the edge of the weaving. Bend them making narrower. Drip a drop of polymer glue and insert the tubes from the cut side. The connection point should be at about 3 mm from the edge of the weaving and they will be hidden in the next row. Do the same with the other base tubes and continue the weaving. All the base tubes glued and we can continue weaving. Place the base bowl inside to weave around it, and put something heavy in it. We will weave from the right to the left and use Reverse rope instead of Straight rope, because we changed the side of the weaving. According to this method, the front weaving tube is placed over the first base tube and under the back weaving tube and bends around the second base tube from the backside. Shape the corners pressing them to the base bowl. Two corner tubes should lie parallel with the corner of the base bowl. The first weaving tube ended and we can notice that the connection point is not in the middle but a little further. Therefore, when we use Reverse rope, we cut the tube at about 15 mm from this base tube, approximately right there, also at an acute angle. It’s not necessary to use glue on the straight sections, but necessary on the corners, because the tubes there can fall out. The connection point is properly hidden there. Continue weaving using Reverse rope. I finished the half of the sidewalls, the other half left, and now we need to make a handle to easily put away the base bowl, because in the end of the weaving it would be tightly fixated inside. And we will also prime it with the base bowl inside. Therefore, we will wrap it with food plastic wrap to prevent the base bowl from becoming dirty and make a handle using the scotch. I finished weaving the second half and believe this height is enough. The next step is to hide the tubes. The lower tube will be hidden behind the first base tube, and the upper one behind the base tube on the left. For convenience, remove the base bowl. Cut the edges at the distance of 5mm from the bending here and there. Hide one tube under the other, and the other tube insert into the weaving. Pour the glue on both tubes from the bottom side, wait one minute until it dries slightly, then insert it and press firmly. Do the same with the second tube – insert, press and hold tightly for a while. Before making the bending and hiding the base tubes, we need to prime the basket to make it firm. We will primer and dry it with the base bowl inside, because after bending we won’t be able to insert the bowl. Primer using a solution of varnish and water in one-to-one ratio. Before priming place the film on the table and wear gloves. I recommend to use a matte varnish, because the basket has the natural vine color and that way it will look more natural. Before pouring the varnish to the water, stir it, if necessary. That mixture is similar to the one used for priming the tubes in the beginning, but more concentrated. Primer the basket from the outside without removing the base bowl, then make it dry You can speed up the drying process by using a hair dryer. After drying, take out the base bowl and primer the basket from the inside. Now, I’ll primer the basket from the bottom and dry it for a while with a hair dryer, so that it takes the shape. 12 hours passed since the priming and I took out the base bowl. I primed it only from outside. The inner side will be primed after bending. because even primed from the one side, the basket is solid as rock. The second reason of its solidity is that the tubes themselves were primed before, and it actually has the double layer of the primer. The next step is making the bending. The bending will be made from the base tubes, which are pretty firm, because they were made of 10 cm wide paper. But for bending they have to be softer to prevent their breaking, therefore, they will also be primed by the varnish and water mixture and dried by hair drier as we’ve done with weaving tubes. After that, they will be more elastic and will lay down more accurately. The base tubes were primed. Dry the bottoms of the base tubes more intensive than the tops, because the tops will dry during the bending process. I learned about that weaving technique on the web site linked in the description. At the first stage of the bending, weave the same as we were weaving Straight rope, place the tube in front of the first post and behind the second one. At the beginning of the weaving, we have to reserve space using two tubes of contrasting color. Later, we will fill the space with two adjacent tubes. Begin weaving from the middle tube. To make weaving in this place more neat, we can help ourselves with the knitting needle. Bend the tube, place it in front of the first post, make a little curve, place it behind the second post and bring it to the front side. Continue weaving using this method. Don’t forget to press the tubes. It turns out like this. It looks good, because the base tubes are elastic. So, let’s finish weaving this row. The last tube will be inserted instead of the temporary white one. Don’t forget to correct it, if there are some uneven tubes. Make sure one tube sticks out of each hole and smooth the tubes especially at the base of the weaving. At the next step, insert the tube into the hole on the left. Use scissors for easier insertion. Don’t forget to correct right away. Insert the last tube between two tubes on the left. Widen the hole and insert it. Correct if necessary. This is how it looks from the inside. Also tight the tubes. Our bending is ready. After 10 minuter the primer dried up and became solid. but to make sure that the tails won’t come out after cutting, I will primer the bending at the second time just in case and then cut the edges of the tubes with nippers. I used the hair dryer to speed up the drying, and now the bending area is quite solid to cut off the tails. You should cut them as close to the weaving as possible. First, cut with scissors, then, use the nippers for closer cutoff. After cutting, press the edges firmly and hide them under the loop. When finished, you could see that some edges are light on the cut, therefore, stain, if needed, to make them invisible. Afterwards, primer the whole basket from the inside, especially the cut edges on top. Thoroughly spread the primer to prevent excess and let it dry out. At the last stage, after 24 hours of drying, we should’ve varnished the basket. But my matte varnish has a light glossy shade, so I decided to primer the basket once again with a concentrate primer with a little vanish. The basket looks more natural that way. Now the basket is fully weaved, dried out and ready to be decorated. I’m going to make the frame from the tubes and attach to it a bow made of jute rope. At the end, I’ll decorate the composition with pine nuts. Take 5 tubes of middle tone and cut pieces of 9 cm. But previously, cut the edges. Cut at the marked points. Stain the edges with a solution of the same tone. Don’t use to much stain. Now all the edges looks similar. Afterwards, glue tubes together. I want my frame to be inclined, so each of them will be displaced 3 mm apart. Something like that. Pour polymer glue on one side of the tube and attach the next one. The frame is ready and should be dried out during one or two hours, and then varnished. While the frame is drying, I’ll show how to make the bow. It’s very easy. Take the jute rope 70 cm long, fold it in half, one more time in half, find the center, and tie a simple bow. Don’t tie it tightly, it should be loose. The bow shouldn’t be neat, but rather negligent, which makes it charming. You can choose any bow you like, but I think the jute bow is sutable and will look pretty on this basket. After two hours of drying, cover it with acrylic varnish and spread it evenly. To make the frame flat, dry it with a hair dryer, press it during drying, and then leave it to dry completely. Frame is dried and now we can attach it to the basket. I’m going to glue it at an angle. It looks better that way. Pour polymer glue on the inner side. There should be a lot of glue, which then spread. Press the frame firmly to the basket and hold for a while to make the connection strong. Now, attach the bow, slightly flattening in the middle. Pour glue in the middle and a little at the edges. Then, find the center of the frame, and press the bow firmly. At the last step, decorate the composition with pine nuts, adding some glue to each of them. Place nuts on the free space randomly. When everything is glued together, we can consider the basket finished. Our basket is ready. We got a very pretty Melange style paper basket. Mixing of different shades of maple stain makes it look cozy and sparkling by the bright autumn colors. This is how the bottom looks like, and the opposite side. I’m proud that the corner between the bottom and sidewalls turned out to be neat and smooth. Therefore, the bottom and sidewalls look well-combined. The pigtail style bending adorns the top of the basket. The jute rope bow and pine nuts looks great on the front side. The basket is very solid, because it was varnished. You can store different food and fruit in it. It can be wiped with a damp cloth. If you were weaving with me, I hope that your basket also turned out to be autumn and adorable. I wish you to weave a lot of beautiful baskets and the autumn mood.


30 thoughts on “#7 Корзинка Меланж Мастер-класс от А до Я DIY Newspaper Basket Weaving Tutorial ENGLISH SUBTITLES”

  • Татьяна Лобачева says:

    Ниночка!!! ваши все корзиночки – это произведение искусства!!! красотища необыкновенная! а вы не работаете с джутом? за что бы вы не брались украшение из лент или плетение корзин- все у вас отлично получается. вы очень все талантливые девочки! удачи вам!

  • Любовь Фёдорова says:

    Спасибо за мастер класс.Все понятно и очень аккуратная плетенка. Еще раз большое спасибо.

  • Татьяна Луговая says:

    Ниночка здравствуйте… Спасибо вам большое.. Очень все красиво и ясно.

  • Нарезка по времени:
    0:44 Материалы для работы
    0:52 Нарезаем полоски и крутим трубочки
    4:29 Покраска трубочек
    8:15 Делаем трубочки для плетения пластичными: лак+вода+фен
    10:47 Плетём квадратное дно со скруглёнными углами
    13:18 и 15:24 и 31:48 Наращивание трубочек для плетения
    26:38 Плетём стенки корзинки
    29:39 Наращиваем трубочки основы (стоечки)
    35:10 и 43:11 и 45:00 Грунтовка
    37:49 Загибка
    46:21 Украшение корзинки

  • Larisa Vetokhina says:

    Нина, красивый меланж, тоже обожаю его плести. Загибка интересная.

  • Любовь Чалая says:

    Здравствуйте Нина ! МК на отлично ! Все ясно и понятно, без лишних слов. Желаю ВАМ здоровья и творческих успехов. смотрю Ваши МК с удовольствием.

  • Хельга Ржевская says:

    Просто класс! ! !
    В самом прямом смысле слова!
    Работа идеальная!
    Жду с нетерпением следующий ваш МК.
    Удачи !

  • Ольга Астановская says:

    не подскажите как долго можно хранить разведенную грунтовку?

  • 👏رائع وجميل شكرا لكي شرحك العملي وتصويرك رائع ومفيد تبقى مشكلة اللغة ارجو كتابة ترجمة مقادير التلوين ورقمها واسمها باللغة العربية او الانكليزية .اشكرك كثيرا عملك وشرحك رائع تحياتي لكي من سوريا

  • татьяна дубачинская says:

    Здравствуйте, Нина! Вы не пользуетесь грунтовкой из клея ПВА? Ответьте, пожалуйста.

  • Надежда Дача says:

    Простите, а что значит трубочки испортятся!)) Ну собралась я плести, покрыла смесью, и… не получилось плести)) что делать с трубочками?) Выкинуть?))

  • Rosario Leon Perez says:

    No sé si habrá alguien que pueda superarte haciendo cestería con tubos de papel, pero lo que si sé es que tu trabajo es extraordinario, lo único que he hora de menos en tus tutoriales sería una traducción sobreescrita para poder entender mejor tus explicaciones, yo por ejemplo te sigo desde España y me quedo sin saber algunos de los consejos que vas dando sobre el proyecto que tienes entre manos porque no entiendo absolutamente nada de tu idioma, solo lo que puedo sobreentender viendo las imágenes.
    De todos modos te doy las gracias por hacernos llegar tus conocimientos y espero que sean muchos los seguidores que se suscriban a tu canal, así te tendremos mucho tiempo entre nosotros.

  • Ana Laura Cerezo says:

    Good day, IM froma Mexico City, the way you make the basquet is wonderful I wil try to do one and I will show you when I finish it

  • Надежда Макарова says:

    Нина здравствуйте.Спасибо большое за подробный мастер класс,я собираюсь учиться плести из газетных трубочек.Очень доходчиво все объясняете,умни чка.

  • Алекс Алексеенко says:

    Очень красивая карзинк , мне понравлись углы карзинки и загбка . Спасибо.

  • наталия савина says:

    Ооочень красиво!!! Спасибо за такой подробный МК.Смотрела на " одном дыхании",буду плести вместе с вами.Спасибо,спасибо!

  • Раиса Филина says:

    Спасибо…Хорошая работа.Учусь у Вас.Я заметила,что если при поднятии стоек в первом ряду плести не прямой веревочкой,а обратной,то стойки не видны.Можно так сильно не прижимать..Второй ряд можно вязять прямой веревочкой.Получается очень аккуратно, попробуйте…

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