#5 Сиреневая корзинка Мастер-класс от А до Я DIY Newspaper Basket Weaving Tutorial ENGLISH SUBTITLES

#5 Сиреневая корзинка Мастер-класс от А до Я DIY Newspaper Basket Weaving Tutorial ENGLISH SUBTITLES

Tutorial with Nina
LILAC BASKET FROM NEWSPAPER TUBES Hello, guys! Today I’m going to weave a basket for my sister. It will be made in her favorite lilac color. The basket will be decorated with a ribbon and a bow. I’ll share with you how I make it. For weaving we will use the tubes made from newspaper. We also need a ruler, a pan and a scissors. Cut strips from newspaper. Some of them are 10 cm width. The others are 7 cm. We need the strips of different widths, because the base tubes which we’ll use for posts have to be more dense and we use 10 cm strips. The tubes which we use for weaving are soft and we use 7 cm strips. Cut the edge of the newspaper which does’t have letters, because the letters are hard to paint. Also when you cut the strips keep in mind which side will be rolled. Fibers of newspaper go in one direction, and we can choose one side or another. But one side can’t be used for rolling, the other is rolled well, so have in mind this feature. To make the tubes we need 1.5 mm knitting needle, PVA glue and napkins for wiping glue. Both types of tubes are rolled in the same way. Place the knitting needle to the printed corner of the strip at an acute angle, fix it on the corner and roll it tightly. If we’ve done everything right the tube turned white. Take off the knitting needle and drop glue to the corner. Hold for a while so the tube doesn’t unroll. Let the tubes to dry for one day before the painting. Now we have to count how many base tubes we need. We will glue them to our cardboard bottom and place them vertically. The space between the base tubes is usually from 1.5 to 2 cm. I want to place them as close as possible, approximately 1.5 cm or a little more, because this kind of weaving looks very beautiful when the space between the tubes is short and remind knitting. Now, I’m going to measure the perimeter of our base box. It’s 60 centimeters. Dividing 60 to minimal 1.5 cm, but I’ll take a little bigger space between the base tubes, for example 1.65 So we need approximately 36 base tubes and it’s a pretty optimal amount. For making the bottom we need the base box, polymeric glue, two piece of cardboard, wall paper, a ruler, scissors, a pencil, an eraser, dry and wet napkins, and compasses or any other object which we could use to make our bottom. The bottom will be made from two parts of cardboard with wall paper glued on it. I’ve already made one of them as an example. The bottom have to be one cm smaller then our base box’s bottom. To make it you can use a pair of compasses which I don’t have, so I used the part or the mirror with appropriate size. Now, I’m going to outline the mirror and make the second part of the bottom. Put the mirror to the cardboard and outline it and cut it out. If you have a pair of compasses, measure the required diameter and circle it as well. If you want to take the particular fragment from the wall paper, as I’ve done in the other piece of the wall paper, then put your object to front side of the wall paper, level it according of the print, and draw out on front side. If you use a pair of compasses, it even will be easier. We use a pencil to draw the line, because it can be erased and the mark will be invisible. Now, cut out in a circle leaving 1 cm from the drawn line. Then indent the edge. When it’s done, bend the edge along the marked line to be folded around the cardboard later. When indenting the edge, hold 1 or 1.5 mm before the line. In this case when you bend the edge, it will be looked nice. Cut cardboard keeping distance in 1 millimeter inside. Use polymeric glue to attach the cardboard to the wall paper. Using the piece of the cardboard spread glue pretty quickly, because this kind of glue dry very fast. Then put the cardboard along the marking line. Press very hard. Make the second piece in the same way. To glue the cutting edge, place glue to the edge of the cardboard, spread it and press the wall paper. When both parts of the bottom are done, put on top our base box or another heavy object and let them dry. Painting the tubes. We need primer, lilac color paste, acrylic enamel for radiators, a jar for mixing paint, a brush, a spoon, wet and dry wipers, gloves and polyethylene packets. Enamel for radiators is usually added to the painting when we paint the tubes to soft pastel shades. Also this kind of enamel is able to paint the gray color of newspaper. Color paste has a scale of tones from more dark shade to more light. We’re going to use more light tone, so add only a couple drops of the color paste. Before painting stir up our liquids, pour half jar of the primer, them pour acrylic enamel – just a small spoon, stir up thoroughly, and drip a couple drops of the color paste. At first, poor really little amount of the paste, we can add more if necessary, Now, I’m going to paint an example tube to take a look to the color, and let it dry. If I’ll see that color is very pale, and I want more rich color, then I’ll just pour more color paste. I decided to put a little more color paste. Again put the paint to an example tube and wait when it drys. This color I got after drying, and I’m pretty satisfied with it. First, paint the base tubes, because they have to dry well approximately during one day. They have to be completely dry and firm and good to be weaved around. Base tubes and weaving tubes will be painted in the same color. Paint tubes rolling them back and forth. First, paint one side of the tubes then roll them toward yourself. Paint thoroughly from all the sides in order to avoid unpainted parts. Second, tuned the tubes and paint them from the other side. After painting, the tubes have to be dried. Put them to two additional tubes for the best drying and airing. Ones in a while move them for even painting and drying. Paint all the tubes in the same way. Half an hour drying is enough for weaving tubes After that we will cover them with special mixture which I show you later. This mixture makes the tubes elastic and better for weaving. If you’re not going to weave right now, then after half an hour after painting you can wrap up the tubes into the plastic to keep them slightly wet. If they stay uncovered for a long time, they could over dry and became fragile. Put them to the plastic file, wrap up and leave before beginning of the weaving. It is advisable to keep them wet no longer then one day. Otherwise, they could become useless for weaving. Now, we’re going to glue our base tubes between two parts of the bottom. Mark one part of the bottom for spread the base tubes evenly. As I already counted we need 36 of them. Find the center of the circle. If you made the circle with a compassion you already have the center point. Divide the circle to four parts. 36 can be divided to 4 exactly, so it’s very convenient and become 9. So, we have to place 9 tubes in each part. Therefore, mark 9 line on the even distance from each other. When marking is ready, we can start to glue the bace tubes. When you work with glue, use a napkin to keep the table’s surface clean. Before gluing the tube, make it flat in the part which will be glued. Better use the end of the tube it which the rolling begins, because it’s pretty thin, while the rest of the tube is firm. Put the polymeric glue to the marking lines and let it dry approximately during one minute. Place the tube and press hardly. Keep going around all the perimeter. When all the tubes are glued, press them one more time especially in the edge of the bottom. You can use your nail to make the tubes more flat. It makes the second part fit better. When you use polymeric glue, or any other glue, use wet wiper for your hands and for wiping, because the glue could make the tubes and the bottom dirty and they won’t be looked nice. Now, when everything is ready, we can glue both parts of the bottom to each other. Pour the glue and very quickly spread it on the surface. Especially well smear the ends of the tubes. Place the other part of the bottom and make sure it stays evenly. Press it as hard as possible. After that place the base box and put something heavy on top of it to fix our bottom very well. Let it dry during 12 hours. In order to the tubes are been more plastic we will cover them with mixture of acrylic varnish and water and dry them by fan for they won’t stick together. Mix varnish and water in proportion 1:2, one part of varnish and 2 parts of water. Pour water to the jar, add varnish and stir up thoroughly. For better stirring use the brush. Cover the tubes in the same way as we painted them by color paste. Cover one side of the tubes, roll them and cover the other. Let varnish to flow down and dry only the outside layer. For that dry the tubes by a fan for one minute. For keeping the tubes a little wet, wrap them to the plastic file leaving the only ends of the tubes. The ends have to be dry for better connection them to each other. Keep making all the weaving tubes at the same way wrap them up to the file and start making out basket. The tubes and the bottom are ready now. I want to mention that the ends of the tubes which we left uncovered, are the ends which weren’t glued after rolling. These ends are more convenient for fastening. Also, while weaving a little tale on the end of the tube could disturb the fastening. I always cut it out and make the end straight. So before weaving you could cut all the ends. Start weaving. Press ends of the tubes and glue them from the back side of our base tubes. Glue two weaving tubes to two base tubes. Drip polymeric glue and attach the tubes from back side. Wait till the glue drys. This is the view from the back side. When we start weaving, joints will be covered. Start with weaving which we call Straing rope. Take the left weaving tube, place in on the top of the first base tube then under the second slightly pushing. Press in toward the bottom. Weave the second tube in the same way. On top of the first base tube and under the second. Continue as well. That’s how it looks like. During the weaving, while the tubes are wet and plastic, push them to the bottom. Keep working till the tubes come to the end. At the end the tubes are glued and pretty rough, so we’ll cut them off. We can see that the tubes meet each other between base tubes. We have to cut the tube and joint it with another tube exactly in this place. Cut the tube approximately on one centimeter after the last base tube behind which the connection will occur. Trim at an acute angle. Fold the tube at the end, so it was narrow. You can just connect, but
I also drip a drop of glue, in order to make the connection more durable. Put on the tube with the edge without gluing, which we cut off. Thus, the connection came exactly between base tubes. Keep weaving further. When we reach the end, weaving will change to another, which is called Reverse rope. I will weave, using the other to tubes, which I will glue before the first two tubes. I left two base tubes, and I will glue two weaving tubes to them, as I did before. Such weaving is called Pursuit weaving. This method is acceptable when you weave several pairs of rows of Straight and Reverse rope. This weaving method I learned from Olga Lagoda, channel Lagidna Maisternia. I glued two tubes. There are the two previous tubes, and there are two new ones. Reverse rope almost the same as Straight rope. We put the left weaving tube to second base tube, as we weaved the Straight rope, but we change it with the right weaving tube. But the weaving itself is exactly the same, put it on the first base tube and under the second one. Weaving the Reverse rope is less convenient, but I’ll show you how beautiful the combination of Straight and Reverse ropes looks. Press between base tubes to avoid gaps. Such a weaving resembles a plait. Keep going to the end of the row. With Reverse rope the connection of the tubes is the same as with Straight rope. The only thing that when weaving Straight rope we reserve about one centimeter after the base tube, but now we keep a little more, about 13 millimeters, because the connection should be in the gap between two tubes, just beyond the middle. At the end of the row do the last turn before where we stopped weaving the Straight rope. Leave it there and continue to weave Straight rope. Continue weaving Straight rope and pursuit it with Reverse rope. On this stage the weaving is still part of the bottom, since we made the cardboard circles one centimeter smaller than the bottom of the base box. But now it’s time to start using the base box as the basis for weaving. Now the bottom is exactly the same size. In this stage we have to start lifting our base tubes. The fist row of the sidewall we will be waiving without the base box, because now it’s not convenient to use it. Weave as before only slightly lift the base tubes. Now I’m weaving Straight rope lifting the base tubes quite a bit, not much. After weaving one or two rows, we’ll start using the base box, because without it the weaving won’t turn out evenly. After lifting the base tubes, we have to hide the transition as much as possible. Here is the place where the tubes lift so press it well right after weaving. Our so-called plasticine tubes are good for this purpose, because they are bent very well and the transition will be invisible and it will look nice from the bottom to the wall. Well, we reached the end of the row with Straight rope, and now, when we turn to Reverse rope, we lift the base tubes more horizontally. We’ve woven four rows and at this stage we have to put the base box and weave around it. I moved to the other side and now I’ll weave in front. As you remember, there was Straight rope, but on this side it became Reverse rope. I think you can get this quickly, because the principle of weaving is the same. Аll the time make sure that the base tubes stand horizontally and at the same distance from each other. So we reached the end of the row and again the Reverse rope becomes Straight rope on the front side and the weaving goes to the left. Weave one more row with Reverse rope and this row will be the last, then there will be a ribbon decoration. The last turn is made behind the base tube, to which the first weaving tube was glued. You could mark it somehow, for example, I just bent it. I’ve worn the seventh row and now I want to finish it beautifully, according to the pattern. The first and third tubes will be tucked away in the weaving. The second and forth tubes will be glued. Cut the first and third tubed at a distance of approximately five millimeters from the base tube at an acute angle for easy tucking away. Expand the gap behind the base tube using small scissors and hide the tubes. Cut the second and forth tubes at an acute angle and glue them according to the pattern. Apply glue to the back of the tube tips. Push it to the base tube trying to make the connection invisible. Press with scissors. Glue the second tube in the same way. Press the weaving to make it even. In the places where we tucked the ends of the tubes, drip PVA glue for better fixation and let them dry out. At the next stage I’m going to decorate the basket with a satin ribbon. To reserve the place for it, we will use a cardboard strip. I already cut it out from thin cardboard. This strip have to be about two millimeters wider than our ribbon, which should fit there freely. Pass the strip through in the same way as the ribbon will move. Then we’ll weave over this cardboard strip. Do not remove it until the end of the work, so the weaving will not slide down. Glue four weaving tubes to the base tubes, because we’re going to use Pursuit weaving again. Begin to weave two right tubes with Reverse rope. At this stage be sure to use the base box. Press the tubes tightly to the base box for more beautiful weaving. When you reach the next two tubes, start weaving them with Straight robe. The tubes should cover the connection points to make them invisible from the back side. The weaving should be press tightly to the cardboard, but at the same time it shouldn’t jam it, so that the ribbon will move well. Alternating Straight and Reverse ropes, we weave five rows, symmetrically, as we’ve already done below. I also wanted to warn you that if your base box is as low as mine, then in order to easily pull it out at the end of the weaving, you have to attack a loop. I made this loop of scotch tape. I wove five rows and reached the desired height. This tubes is the last on the right. I cut the tails of the tubes right behind the base tubes and decided to tuck them away in a slightly different way. The first tail is pressed down with the second. Do the same with the next tail. Every next tube including the last one is pressed by previous one. Now I just need to tuck away the last one. I hide it inside the weaving. To ensure that the other tails do not come out, I’ll drip PVA glue on them. Now we have to prime our basket in order to make it durable and well formed on the base box before we remove it. Prime the basket with the same mixture that we used to cover the tubes before weaving. This is a mixture of varnish with water, only more concentrated. Poor off some water to get a one-to-one ratio. Stir up thoroughly and apply well from the front side. I decided to use a fan right away to allow the basket to dry out more quickly. After 15 minutes, I removed the cardboard strip so it didn’t stick to the base tubes. After about an hour, when the basket dried, I covered it with a primer form the inside and let it dry. Now, before making a bend, we have to cover all the base tubes along the entire length with the mixture of varnish and water, as we did when we covered the weaving tubes. Our base tubes covered with varnish and water are dried, and everything is ready for making a bend. Our bend will be also made as a plait. This kind of weaving I learned from Elena Tischenko. Begin to make a bend from left to right. In the first part, take one tube, put it behind two tubes and bring it forward. You can put something in the loop, but I just reserved some space for the last tube. For the better bending of the tube in this place, you can help with a spoke. When you have reached the end of the row, put the next to last tube in the first loop and the last one into the second loop. You can go around and fix the irregularities. In each loop there should be one tube. The first part of the bend is ready. Proceed to the second part. Take one tube, put it under two tubes, and lift it up. Do likewise with the other tubes. At the end or the row, when there are two tubes left, first insert the next to last tube under one tube according the pattern. If it’s hard to insert, you can help with a knitting needle. The last tube insert under two tubes. We definitely need help with a spoke here. Now we have to go around and see, if all the tubes come out evenly. In the last part we have to hide all the ends of the tubes inside the plait. They will be hidden invisible under the bend. Insert each tube into the base tube next to in right inside of the weaving. You can help with a spoke to push the tube from top to bottom. Correct the tubes right away. Our tubes are plastic, so we can make them to lie down nicely. Almost done. Hide the next to last tube. The last tube has to enter this space. Expand as much as possible and tuck the tube. That’s how the bend looks from above. Now we have to draw all the tails and beautifully align our plait. Ten minutes after I finished weaving the bend, all the tucked tails lie pretty tight. Before priming the bend, I’m going to cut off the tails, while the weaving is still flexible enough and can even be lifted up. Cut the tubes at an acute angle at the weaving level. You can use a wire cutter. Now we have to prime our bend. Especially good prime from the insde. After that, let the primer dry out. So the primer on the bent has dried out and now we can proceed to the finish part – covering the basket with varnish. I used the varnish which contains wax and noticed that it gave the basket yellowish shade. This spoils the view a little. So if your basket is made in light of pastel colors, then it’s better to use varnish without wax. The last layer is going to be acrylic glossy varnish, because I want my basket to shine. For convenience, poor the varnish to the lid and don’t forget to prepare a big and small brushes. We’ll use a small brush to remove any access varnish. Cover evenly and spread well. After varnishing, the basket can be wiped with a wet rag. Also, this varnish isn’t toxic, so you can use the basket for some foods or sweets. After about ten minutes, when the varnish will dry a little, remove the excess with a small brush. Also, remove the foamed varnish, because it won’t look beautiful especially in openwork areas. If the bottom is made from paper wallpaper, then at this stage also cover it with varnish. My wallpaper has waterproof coating, so I don’t need to varnish it. The varnish has dried and the basket has acquired a beautiful shine, exactly as I wanted. Now we can decorate it with a ribbon. In addition to the ribbon, we need a lighter, scissors, a ruler and polymer glue. My ribbon is one meter and 10 centimeters long. I purposely took it longer, because I want to add a bow. Cut the ribbon at an right angle, and melt the edge with the lighter. The other edge will be cut and melted later. Put the ribbon alternating behind and in front of base tubes. It’s very easy to do. The ribbon should lie down freely, otherwise it won’t look so beautiful. At the end of the row make the last turn inside the box and tuck the ribbon under the adjacent base tube. For this purpose, I left a slightly longer tip. You can help with scissors. The end of the ribbon is invisible and I don’t glue it leaving the opportunity to change the ribbon in the future. The connection point is almost invisible. Cut the same way in front leaving a little space after the base tube. Also melt the edge with a lighter and hide it behind the base tube. The joint is also invisible here. Also I’m going to put a bow in this place. The bow will be voluminous. I have 36 centimeters of the ribbon left. Also melt the ends of this ribbon with a lighter. Now we will cut our ribbon into strips of 17 centimeters, 13 centimeters and 6 centimeters for fixing the bow. When the strips are ready, find their center bending them in half. Fold the ends to the center and glue them on polymer glue. Make a smaller strip in the same way. Later we will fix a center with the smallest strip. Now connect the glued sides towards each other. Finally, glue the smallest strip quite tightly to the center of the bow. For better connection, drip a drop of glue into the center. Apply glue on the reverse side. Our charming bow is ready. Find the place where we hid the ends of the ribbon and glue the bow to this base tube. Always let polymer glue to dry for a minute, then it is better attached to the surface. After a minute, attach the bow pressing tightly. Our candy basket is ready. The ribbon and bow look great. Weaving with Straight and Reverse rope also looks charming. The plait bend decorates the top of the basket. The bottom looks wonderfully. I like the transition between the bottom and the weaving inside and outside the basket. I really appreciate Elena Tischenko for the idea of the bending. I’m also grateful to Olga Lagoda for the idea of Pursuit weaving. Links to their channels are in the description of the video.


15 thoughts on “#5 Сиреневая корзинка Мастер-класс от А до Я DIY Newspaper Basket Weaving Tutorial ENGLISH SUBTITLES”

  • Ольга Алексеева says:

    Нина, мне тоже захотелось сплести такую же корзиночку) красивая она у вас получилась👍🌹🌹🌹

  • Nina Mihailova says:

    Нарезка по времени:
    1. Нарезаем полоски и крутим трубочки 0:48
    2. Делаем картонное дно 4:13
    3. Покраска трубочек 9:04
    4. Приклеиваем трубочки основы ко дну 13:07
    5. Делаем трубочки для плетения пластичными лак+вода+фен 16:27
    6. Плетение корзинки 17:57
    а) наращивание трубочек для плетения 20:13
    б) завершение ряда (прямая+обратная верёвочки) 27:24 и 31:23
    в) готовим место под украшение ленточкой 28:57
    7. Грунтовка корзинки 32:20 и 38:27
    8. Загибка 33:30
    9. Финишное покрытие лаком 38:44
    10. Украшение лентой 40:35

  • Анастасия Игринёва says:

    замудрено конечно, приклеивать трубочки при помощи клея на донышко) когда проще можно сделать при помощи 2х стороннего тонкого скотча, а потом уже поливаю клей титан и второе донышко сверху кладу и под пресс) и ни одна трубочка не отвалилась)

  • leno4ka leno4ka says:

    Здравствуйте, скажите пожалуйста,вот я крашу трубочки в белый цвет,плету все нармально,ну когда я сплету с них и покрываю лаком то они становятся серыми и как будто рваные,хотя при плетении такого не наблюдается (((,что не так? спасибо заранее

  • Dear Nina, It has been a pleasant journey with your masterclass tutorial since I found your channel, you are the best among those weaving classes. Thank you very much. May I ask you a question? I could not found the knitting needle in size 1,5mm here in Switzerland, could I using the size of 2mm instead?

  • Спасибо за мк. Спела для мамы на новый год. Очень красиво получилось. Это моя первая работа. Очень нравятся ваши работы вы очень аккуратно делаете и детально объясняете. Спасибо вам

  • Татьяна Лобачева says:

    я начала плести.учусь у вас! ваши плетеночки очень аккуратненькие – загляденье!

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